Prada的异想世界 李晶晶:可怕的不是怪兽,是人心

怪兽存在这个世界上吗?怪兽是怎么被塑造的?你们怎么解读怪兽?

Prada最新春夏系列,就要将这个黑色魔幻的骚动力量,带进时尚,逐步渗透,危险世界。

Do monsters exist? How are monsters created? How do you define monster? Prada’s latest collection touches upon the darkness and turmoil that is permeating the world today. The world is slowly becoming an intensely dangerous place.

这个最新系列很军装,暨觉纪律感,又用动漫的趣味元素,制造「时尚动乱」!这些军风轮廓,看起来就像全面戒备,随时备战。(笑

This new collection was filled with militant silhouettes, disciplined but playful creating a comical twist to our messed up world. These silhouettes all look ready to take action.

设计师Miuccia Prada的灵感来源就是自经典恐怖片「Frankenstein科学怪人」!你可以看到科学怪人片中的指标性元素出现在裙装、衬衫、甚至贯穿整个系列。

Miuccia Prada took inspiration from the horror movie Frankenstein. You can see Frankenstein motifs on skirts and shirts throughout the collection.

其实说穿了,男人不就像怪兽?但同时他们也创造了怪兽!但是如果你看再深一层,Miuccia Prada对科学怪人的作者Mary Goodwin玛丽雪莱本身的故事更有兴趣,玛丽雪莱是一个了不起的女性,尤其在她那个性别不平等的年代,她的作品甚至被迫匿名。

Men are monsters but they also create monsters. But if you look deeper, her underlying interest was with the author, Mary Goodwin, an amazing woman who was forced to publish anonymously due to gender constraints during her era.

而在现今,Prada是一个这么充满影响力的设计师,但她总是保持沉默。近来Prada集团推出的全新Pradamalia未来动物系列,其中一个猴子造型设计的钥匙圈,因为设计成咖啡黑色系,又因推出时间巧合的接在Dolce & Gabbana具有种族歧视争议的广告大片之后,也不幸沦为众矢之的。

In present days, Prada is a designer with such influence but there are times when even she is muted. Recently the company faced outrage from the “Pradamalia” toys which evokes extremely racist imagery. These derogatory monkey keychains came just after Dolce & Gabbana’s disastrous racist campaign.

这场秀即像当今这个动荡世界的反射。你们又怎么看呢?这个Prada的精巧伶俐的时尚科学怪人系列?

This show was a reflection of our messed up world, magnifying it. What do you guys think about Miuccia Prada’s fashion savvy Frankenstein?

※图片+文字:Vogue 风格达人 - CrystalLee

(完整文章请看VOGUE.com)

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