走进巴黎古著名店挖宝　发现法国女孩私藏的复古时尚

旁人看热闹、内行看门道，用这句话形容「Vintage古着文化」，可说是再贴切不过。

将时间轴拉回九零年代的伦敦，由披头四、Vivienne Westwood等名人及设计师带起的「混穿热潮」，旧衣重穿及再造成为当时潮人的时尚圭臬。后来这股「时代热」延烧到战后留有大量美军服饰的日本，崇洋与反叛的心理交叠，涩谷、町田、里原宿则透过优异的仿旧功法，将Vintage的呼声推至最顶处。

这大概是大家对于「古着」的既定印象─仿旧、重制、二手，但其实不然。真正的古着，指的是二零到八零之间，保存良好且能体现时代精髓的设计师服饰，某些技艺现在已经很难看到，某些细节就算后辈再怎么临摹，好像就是不那么有味道。

正因古着文化那么深奥、却同时迷人到令人神往，Wazaiii编辑决定实地走访巴黎颇具盛名的古着店「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」，向主理人夫妻档Amnaye与Sylvie取经。走进店里，错落有致的真皮皮件、按照色阶陈列的大衣与洋装，还有最让复古迷醉心的，无法形容的老物香气袭上身，究竟在Amnaye眼中，何谓复古？何谓时尚？两者之间的关联又何在？跟我一样等不及听解答的，古着大师的不藏私解惑，看下去。

（文末附上英文访谈内容／English version of this interview is down below.）

「您当初跟太太Sylvie一同开店的契机为何？古着是你们共同的兴趣吗？」

『Well……这是一段很长的故事。我太太在1994年开了第一家服饰店后又停了几年，当我们相遇之后，发现两人对于「时尚、古着、生活」怀抱着相同的梦想，也渴望完成一件属于我们的Project。

当时我告诉她，既然她家里搜集了那么多古董衣，为何不就拿来卖？所以我们就在隔壁开设了第一家古着小店，不知不觉就这样走过10几年。』

「为何当初会想把两间店开在一起？」

『在巴黎，如果店主想拓展营业规模，通常房东只会允许他们把分店开在二楼（如果想找其他据点又是另一回事，不过小店的物流和资金状况不太能允许多方设点。）不过当时我们的房东告诉我们，隔壁一楼的空间，也就是我们现在待的地方，可以特例租给我们，于是我们把墙打穿、扩大坪数，还特别规划了「男装区」和「女装区」。

你得知道，虽然当时的男人不像现代这么喜欢穿古着，不过我们确实因此吸引到不少特立独行的年轻人，如今他们仍是我们的忠实顾客，当然，这些现在早就见怪不怪了。』

「您究竟是如何搜集到这么多古着的？看看它们！」

『这我当然不能告诉你，哈哈！（可恶，没套到话）我认为做这行最重要的就是「人脉」，Sylvie认识非常多古着专家，我们也很常走访世界各地挖宝，累积了快三十年的人脉，我们自然有办法找到好货。

另外，我很讨厌这么说，但这是事实，巴黎是世界的时尚重镇，这座城市创造了无数精美的订制服和时装，这里也是Yves Saint Laurent、Hermes、Christian Dior等时装屋的发源地，这些是我们的先天优势，我们做的只是专注在我们热爱的事以及消费者对于法式复古的醉心罢了。』

「提到「法式复古」，您会如何定义它？」

『我认为法国的女人和设计师们都非常强调强烈的用色、廓形及线条，他们总能大胆尝试，却又不失优雅洗炼，在两者之间寻得绝佳的平衡点。』

「当您搜集店内贩售的古着服饰时，是否会特别着迷于哪个年代的设计？」

『不太会。「Vintage」一词源自「红酒」，也就是法文的「Le vin」（原来如此！语言学如此奥妙的部分），法国人非常热爱品酒，我们甚至不太在乎手中的酒来自哪个年份，好喝顺口就好，古着也是。

不管它是来自五零、六零还是七零年代，我们真正在乎的是从一个年代挑出设计最好的、品质最佳的、最经典不衰的，而不是通通都挑同个年代的。』

「所以挑选古着时最重要的还是老板的品味？」

『没错，对于我老婆挑货的品味，我非常自豪（Amnaye眼神坚定，很是感人）。她多年来累积的眼光除了让她能在茫茫衣海中，挑到最特别、最漂亮的，另外，我们相信每件古着都能传递一个故事、一种情绪，而这就是成功的秘密。我们打造了一个空间，让喜欢古着的消费者可以一踏进店里，就能认识我和Sylvie，有些古着店主理人专精于晚宴装，有些擅于搜集战用军装，但我们喜欢收藏「不退时的古着」，因为时尚是不断重复循环的一个圈，上一季亮橘色最流行，下一季却是青苹果绿当道，设计师们春夏用了大量的蓬蓬袖，秋冬却可能通通栽进修身剪裁的俐落感。

时尚趋势不断在变，所以我们从来就不必「过度怀旧」，古着不代表老旧、不代表过时，它是经过岁月洗练后，最高端的时尚。』

「这么说，当Sylvie在寻找古着时，她同时也非常关注流行趋势？」

『完全没错，这就是我们不断尝试做到的，一件70或80的YSL裙子可能恰好符合2019年消费者的审美，你知道设计师间流传着一本「Trend book」吗？（点头）

上面会决定这季流行什么颜色、下季流行什么印花，我总觉得「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」就是一本古着Trend book，这三个月流行什么，由我们和顾客一起决定。』

「我注意到「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」店内有一个自创品牌叫作「Maison Chateigner」，它和其他古着的差别何在？」

『你从名字就能看出来，「Maison Chateigner」是由我太太创立的，哦对了，Sylvie姓Chateigner，哈哈！创立这个品牌主要的目的，是希望可以将男性的旧衣服，改造成女性的新单品，那时我太太会把在古着店买来的男版衬衫当作one-piece洋装来穿，路人很常问她是在哪里买的，很好看，当然哪都买不到，因为这是Sylvie自己解构、重造的，后来我百般劝她自创品牌，少害臊了！

半推半就、一步一脚印前进之下，我们才在去年创立了「她」的王国。（Wazaiii编辑：谁说欧洲男人比谁都爱面子？Amnaye从来就是擦拭Sylvie、任她发光的温暖臂弯。）』

「那么，既然这已是一个独立的品牌，为何不把自己做出来的改造衬衫规模化量产？或是找寻更大的通路或选品店让更多人看到它？」

『你知道，我们的主要目标从来就不是赚钱，所以除了店内陈列，「Maison Chateigner」只有在网路上贩售，只有这样，不管你来自巴黎、美国或亚洲，都能享有同样的价钱，而且这个价钱是合理的，消费者能用可负担的金额，换得品质卓越的法制羊毛、纺纱及棉料，你看一眼它，然后再看看旁边的Chanel，对我而言，它们的美丽程度是相等的。』

「懂了。（Wazaiii编辑面露崇拜、双膝触地）那么您有特别崇拜哪位设计师吗？」

『嗯……我爱圣罗兰先生。像这件（右手俐落的挑起陈列上的上衣）这是八零年代的YSL，而且它是全新的，我看看，噢，售价是240欧元，然后你看看它，这一样是YSL的，光是用双眼扫视，你就能看出布料和廓形有多精致，放到现代也非常实穿，可以同时保有经典和时髦感，这就是古着让人难以招架的魅力。』

「谈到经典和现代相碰头，对于年轻人而言，您认为「古着」和「快时尚」是可以混搭的吗？或其实根本就没有所谓的可不可以？」

『我做这行十年了，各式各样风格的人我都遇过，对我来说，只要是「在意外表」的人，「混搭」本就是他们的天性，或至少会愿意不断尝试。像我这身是用Uniqlo混搭古着，噢，靴子是Christophe Lemaire的，也不一定全身都得着用老东西，我现在感觉非常好。』

「所以，您曾注意来自世界各地的人，在古着及时尚之间抓取不同风格？」

『当然啊！我曾见过来自洛杉矶、首尔、东京、中国的客人，他们穿戴古着的方式不尽相同，在我们的事业刚起步前，大多知道我们的都是来自巴黎或欧洲的客人，但现在，我们吸引了来自世界各地的古着爱用者，所以也见过不同地域下碰撞出的火花。

我觉得古着是无国界之分的，一件单品穿在不同人身上，会有完全不一样的效果，就像我前面说的：『时尚是一个轮回，与其像只无头苍蝇盲目追寻，找一个自己喜爱且能驾驭的风格，才是穿搭王道。』

后记

访完Amnaye和Sylvie，Wazaiii编辑心中只有敬佩二字。

我当然敬佩他们的挑货眼光，不过更让人心悦诚服的，是两人对于古着文化的热忱，你们真该瞧瞧Amnaye拿起圣罗兰时的眼神，像极了看到糖果的婴孩，还有谈到自创品牌时，他的神色有多么骄傲。每件亲挑的衣服都是独一无二，故事性永远比实不实穿来得重要。

Wazaiii编辑想起自己在Netflix上看过一部名叫《Girlboss》的影集，女主角Sophia擅长将从古着店挖来的二手衣放在eBay拍卖，翻身成为千万富翁后，她始终留着一件骑士皮外套，可能是红蓝白配色、可能是庞克感廓型，它总让我想起David Bowie的摇滚时代，这就是古着的魅力，它能说故事。（影集本身没那么好看就是了）

时尚趋势不断从时装历史找寻灵感，有时五零的赫本性感是当季大势，有时八零的垫肩让众人群起效尤，经历流金岁月洗练之下的古着，像是洞悉一切的时尚秃鹰，不盲目的跟随流行、它自成一格，有老物的复古质地，却比谁都走得还前面。

原来啊，最高级的时尚经典，正是Vintage。

（English Version）

How did you and your wife start off this vintage store? Is it your common interest?

Well, it’s a long story. My wife established a store in 1994, and stopped for a few years. Afterwards, we met each other, both having the desire to start a project not only linked to fashion and vintage, but “lifestyle” as well. Since she had collected so many vintage clothes to a point that we don’t even have enough of space at home, we were like “Why not selling all of them?”. So we opened a small boutique, which is next to where we’re at now.

So why did you set up two stores right next to each other?

You know, usually in Paris, if the owners want to expand the dimension of their stores, they are mostly allowed to set up the next place above the original one, which makes it two floors.

However, the landlord told us we could take the next-door space and break right through the wall to connect one another, so we did it! Not only did we connect them, but we delegated a specific department for women and another for men.

How do you gather so many vintage clothes? I mean, look at them!

It’s our secret for sure, haha! But I can tell you that, doing what we do for nearly 30 years now, the most important thing is always “connections”. My wife knows a lot of professional people and we travel often, so we’d have the resources we require. Besides, despite the fact that I hate to say it but it’s true, Paris is the leading fashion capital. We have created an amount of coutures and exquisite clothes for a long time, and also, big brands and “maisons” like Yves Saint Laurent, Hermes, and Christian Dior are all located here. What we do is focusing on what we love and the what people love about French style.

How would you describe French style back at old times?

I think both French designers and women emphasize the bold colour, shapes and silhouettes. At the same time, they manage to keep the clothes look refined and not too over-the-top.

Is there a specific era that you love when you collect your storage?

Not so much. Actually, the word “vintage” comes from wine, which in French is “le vin”. You know how French people enjoy wine and we don’t care which era it’s from, so is vintage. No matter it’s from the 50s, 60s or 70s, all we care is to pick our favorite from “each” decade, instead of loving everything from a certain time.

So it all comes down to your taste level?

Yes. I’m so proud of my wife’s taste level. She has a good eye enabling her to find special pieces, which are not only unique and beautiful but conveying a story. I think this is our secret. We create visions for our customers so that once they step in our vintage stores, they know our personalities.There are some other vintage owners that specialize military outfits or evening dresses. As for us, we try to find pieces that fit the trends now, because fashion is cycling. Sometimes fashion adores bright orange one season, but turn their fingers to apple green next. Designers may develop puffy sleeves in their spring/summer collections, but turn to slim-fit waist line in their fall/winter ones. Fashion changes all the time, so it’s unnecessary to be trapped by “nostalgia”. Vintage does not mean old, it’s a more classic version of fashion from my perspective.

With that said, even though your wife searches for vintage clothes, she can also catch up with the latest trends?

Exactly! This is what we have tried to accomplish. Sometimes you can find a Yves Saint Laurent skirt in the 70s or 80s here that fit customers’ aesthetic now. You know designers have a “trend book” that decides which fabrics, colors, or prints they’d use from season to season, and I feel like 「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」is a trend book itself.

Yeah, it’s like walking in the history with trends that people can really touch. In here, it seems like fashion and vintage are both tangible.

Voila! And it makes us work even harder knowing that we can really determine people’s wardrobes and recognition. We try to offer people that love fashion but couldn’t afford high-end clothes, with providing equivalent quality in a more reasonable price. Furthermore, it’s our honor to create a more sustainable platform in the retail industry. We use recycled paper, recycled decors and of course, recycled clothes. Vintage can represent more than loving dated outfits, it’s also an expression of showing love to the world.

I’ve noticed that 「THANX GOD I’M A VIP」has its own brand named「Maison Chateigner」. What could differentiate the two within one place?

As you can tell by the name, the brand「Maison Chateigner」is founded in 2018 by my wife, Chateigner. The main spirit is to repurpose and reconstruct men’s old clothes into women’s new options. The idea came from the old days, when she would put on a men’s shirt that she made it into a dress, and people on the street would be like “Oh my god! Where did you find this?” Of course no one could ever find it, cause she reproduced it on her own. And one day I asked her not to be shy, instead, since we have our own channel, why not just put your “twist” for sale? Then she kinda agreed and we start everything step by step to where we are now.

But why not just put the lines or collection into a bigger channel such as department stores and select shops for the fact that it’s an independent brand?

You know, it’s not our aim to make more money. We want to keep the price fair, so we only sale this brand online. For that, people from Paris or anywhere in the world would share the same price, getting fabrics like wools, yarns or cotton made in France. At the same time, you can look at all the Chanel products, they are both so appealing in my opinion.

Got it. Is there a specific designer that you like or worship?

Uhh…… I love Yves Saint Laurent. This is from the 80s and it’s never worn. Oh, it’s 240 euros. And this total look, wow it’s also YSL. You can tell how exquisite the fabrics, the shapes of them are, and it’s difficult to find anything like that now. That’s what makes vintage so irresistible, for it being classic and contemporary at the same time.

Talking about classic trends meeting the contemporary ones, for youngsters nowadays, do you think they can “mix-and-match”vintage and fast-fashion, or there’s no such boundary?

For me, after my ten-year business experience, I’ve seen so many different styles from people around the world. I think it’s fair to say that “mix-and-match” is what people who cares about their appearance would naturally do, so yeah, there’s no limit. Now I’m wearing our brand with Uniqlo, and oh my boots are from Christophe Lemaire, and I couldn’t feel better.

So you’ve noticed that every country has their own flair when it comes to the clash of vintage and fashion?

Mais oui! People from L.A., Seoul, Tokyo, China differ. At the beginning of our career, our main customers are from Paris and mostly Europe. As we build are reputation step by step overseas, vintage lovers from Asia started to purchase our products. We love how vintage is borderless, and that with the exactly same item, different person would wear a different way. As I said, fashion is a cycle, and we are here to not follow it blindly, but harness it with personal style.

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论时髦，叫你阿嬷来啊！

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