新加坡Restaurant ANDRE将歇业 江振诚:我要回家了
被时代杂志喻为印度洋上最伟大的厨师、入选全球百大名厨的江振诚,他在新加坡开设的Restaurant ANDRE连二年摘下米其林二星,不过江振诚却在10日宣布将从Restaurant ANDRE退役,除了把重心将转回台湾及RAW之外,2018与2019将会有几个新计划,在江振诚给大家的声明文中指出,回到40多年前出生的故乡-台湾,一直都是他的梦想,他说「现在,我要回家了。」
▲首位摘星的台湾主厨江振诚要回来台湾了!(图/黄士原摄)里提到餐厅在2018年二月即将有重大的改造,明年初开始江振诚也将重新调整生活的重心,计划回到台湾专注在教育与培养人才。不过因为之前Restaurant ANDRE只有江振城在厨房的时候才营业,餐厅也是以江振诚英文名来命名,没有了江振诚,就不能叫Restaurant ANDRE,因此江振诚特地在声明文提到,他将归还米其林二星,同时提醒2018年的新版新加坡米其林指南请将Restaurant ANDRE排除在考量之列。另外,回来台湾之后,除了教育与培养人才,江振诚也希望能在RAW单纯享受做菜的乐趣,他也希望未来台湾(或台北)米其林指南能把垂爱留给RAW以外的餐厅。
30年的职业料理生涯里,出生的故乡-台湾,一直都是江振诚的梦想。在这片土地上,江振诚将货所有的气力将经验与知识传承给台湾与中国的新世代,给年轻的厨师们更好的教育与餐饮文化对他来说更是刻不容缓。江振诚说,「现在,我要回家了。」
江振诚声明中文版2017年10月10日
「我是个完美主义者。在我过往的30年职业生涯里,我不断在追寻着那不存在的『完美』,像是世界最佳餐厅、米其林三星,…等等的肯定,直到现在我才发觉,此刻,已是最完美。」
从 Restaurant ANDRE 开始的第一天我就告诉我自己,我要亲手写卡片给每一位来这里庆祝特别时刻的客人一直到今天。 Restaurant ANDRE 只有我在厨房的时候才营业;我会逐桌的跟每位客人打招呼问候,确认我每晚的 30 位客人来这里用餐是开心的;我的太太每天亲自打理店里的花艺、香氛、甚至是化妆室。每一次晚餐前,我们会移动整栋餐厅的桌子,从一楼到三楼来来回回的调整,为的是让整个空间能完美的满足每一位来这里的客人的目的,直到现在我们还是坚持这样做。
我们要随性的创作料理,当我们觉得当天的菜单应该怎么做最好时,我们就怎么做,同一天里的午餐与晚餐绝对不会有任何一道重复的料理,直到现在我们还是这么做。我们下定决心要让新加坡以我们为傲,要让亚洲以我们为荣,要成为世界上最棒的餐厅之一,我们办到了,而且我们还在继续的这样做。
尽管我们想要做或是想要达成的事情从来没有人做过,但我们从来没有丝毫的疑虑;因为我们打从心里知道我们独一无二,而且我们会心无旁鹜的努力达成我们心目中的「完美」。
在我的自传「初心」封面上有句话:「当我觉得一道菜完美的时候,就是我放手的时候。」
我13岁就开始做菜了,到这个月我的专业料理生涯就刚好满30年。我想重回原点,调整未来人生的方向,重拾最初做菜时的快乐。我总是问我的伙伴们:「你为什么想成为一名厨师?」,不是为了出名,不是为了有几千人来按赞;应该是为了料理出一道道美好美味的料理时带来的快乐,而且透过成为一个专业厨师的重要过程,成为一个更好的人。此刻,我很骄傲地看着Restaurant ANDRE的每一位伙伴都成为「诚实–热情–创意–灵活–还有正面积极的独立个体」。
我们在这里打造了这绝无仅有,让人难以置信的一切一切。
在这里,我江振诚仅代表新加坡Restaurant ANDRE宣布,餐厅在2018年二月即将有重大的改造,明年初开始我也将重新调整我生活的重心,因此,我将归还米其林二星,同时提醒2018年的新版新加坡米其林指南请将Restaurant ANDRE排除在考量之列。循着米其林指南在亚洲区的发展脚步,我知道米其林即将在曼谷与台湾推出(我的餐厅之一RAW坐落于台北)。我衷心的期待RAW是一个单纯的所在,在这里未来我会更专注在教育与培养人才,在我从Restaurant ANDRE退役后能在这里更单纯享受做菜的乐趣,因此,我也恳请将台湾(或台北)米其林指南的垂爱留给RAW以外的餐厅。
你或许会问:「为什么是现在?」因为,此刻我人生中最棒的时刻,每天我走进餐厅,走进厨房,我看到每个人,每件事都井然有序,闪闪发亮,无懈可击;我从来没看过任何一家餐厅像这里这么棒!这里的每位伙伴都如我所求的那般完美,这个完美的团队应该将是我这辈子仅见,而且我们一起达成了所有我们想达成的一切。
江振诚将带着他的伙伴在2018年2月14日,为Restaurant ANDRE画上句点,在那之后,2018与2019我们将会有几个新计划,我们将在近期内尽快让大家知道。
30年的职业料理生涯里,回到40多年前我出生的故乡- 台湾,一直都是我的梦想。在这片土地上,我将倾我所有的气力将经验与知识传承给台湾与中国的新世代,我责无旁贷;给年轻的厨师们更好的教育与餐饮文化对我来说更是刻不容缓。即便Restaurant ANDRE所成就的这一切即将结束在世界美食版图里,走入所有热爱美食的你们的回忆里,我已无憾,因为我们已经为新加坡为亚洲做到我们想成就的一切。
现在,我 要回家了。
「我一向追求完美。此刻,就是完美。」
江振诚英文版To my Dear friends and Beloved guests,
“I’m a perfectionist and for the past 30 years of my career, I’ve been looking for that unrealistic “moment of perfection”; Three Michelin stars, World’s Top 50 restaurant… until now I realized, at this moment- It is perfect as it is”
Since day one of Restaurant ANDRE I told myself I want to let all my diners have a hand-written card by me when they celebrate their special moment with us; until today, Restaurant ANDRE would only open for operation when I myself am cooking; I will greet every table, every single guest, make sure we have 30 happy guests every service; my wife will decorate the restaurant everyday personally- flower arrangement, room scent and even down to every single toiletry…
We move around the tables of the entire restaurant from 1st to 3rd floor every single service, change the configuration to fit perfectly the room and the agenda of each guest; we are still doing it. We decide to change the menu spontaneously whenever we want, not a single overlap dish from lunch to dinner on the same day; we are still doing it. We were determined to make Singapore proud, make Asia proud, to be one of the best restaurants in the world; we did it, and are still doing it!
We never doubted ourselves, although everything we try to achieve, no one has ever done it before, but that doesn’t matter, because we know we are unique and we are striving for our “perfection”.
I have a quote on the cover of my biography, it says: “The moment I perfect a dish, is the moment I let go from my menu”
I started to cook since I was 13, and this month will be the 30th year of my professional culinary journey.
I want to go back to where I started, I want to go back to cooking, have a balanced life and cook happily.
I always ask this of my brigade, “Why you want to be a chef?” The happiness of cooking a beautiful, tasty dish, not for the fame, not for having a thousand Likes, but through the process of being a true professional, makes us a better person; now I’m so proud to see that each one of Restaurant ANDRE’s team being Honest- Passionate- Creative- Flexible- and Positive individuals.
WE HAVE BUILT SOMETHING UNBEATABLE AND UNBELIEVABLE HERE.
I am writing to officially inform you that I, Andre Chiang, on behalf of Restaurant ANDRE in Singapore, am preparing for a significant transformation by February 2018; specifically, I have decided to re-prioritize my professional life from early next year, and as such, I wish to kindly return my Michelin stars and also request to not be included in the 2018 edition of the Michelin Guide Singapore. Following Michelin Guide’s expansion in Asia, I understand that Michelin will soon launch new editions in Bangkok and Taiwan (where my other restaurant RAW is located in Taipei). As my hope is that RAW will be the pure place where I can focus on educating, developing others, and cooking after my retirement from Restaurant ANDRE, I also request that RAW not be included in the Michelin Guide Taiwan (or Taipei).
You might ask, why now? Because this is the best moment of my life, I walked into the restaurant, into the kitchen, I see everyone, everything in order, polished, flawless, I have never seen any restaurant like this! Every one of them is everything I hoped for, this is the perfect team that I will not see anywhere else again, and we have achieved everything we want to achieve.
Andre and his brigade will serve their last service at Restaurant ANDRE on the 14th of February 2018; after this, there will be a few projects in 2018 and 2019, of which we wish to share with you more in the near future.
After thirty years of a professional culinary career, returning to where I was born forty years ago has always been my dream, passing on everything I have to the next generation in Taiwan and China is my duty, and providing young chefs a better education and culinary culture is an urgent priority for me. Although Restaurant ANDRE’s legacy will soon become a fond memory to the world’s gourmets, I have no regrets, as we have achieved all that we have wanted to for Singapore and for Asia.
Now, it is time for me to go home.
“I’m a perfectionist, and this is perfect.”
Andre Chiang